eal - beef medallions in a peppercorn sauce, potatoes and mixed local vegetables. Including warm rolls, dessert and wine the total was $14 per person! After a full day of travel and waiting around airports, we decided to turn in before midnight - unlike most people in Guate as it is called. They let off more fireworks than a 4th of July celebration !We had a leisurely morning with a traditional breakfast of eggs done similarly to an omelette with chili sauce on top. When our minivan arrived it was time to depart for Panajachel on Lake Atitlan. There was already one passenger from Australia in it. We hopped in with three guests from our B&B who were going to a small town past our lake for Spanish immersion classes while living with local families. For the next three hours we wound up and down mountain passes and bumped through small towns before arriving at Pana. We were dropped off at the Circus Bar where we were to meet the owners, Renee and Isabelle, of the villa we rented. Our new Australian friend Cheng stayed and had lunch with us while we waited - a large pizza for less than $10 and a beer for $2.50. Wh
en the owners arrived, Sue went off with Isabelle to pick up some bread and wine - essentials !! We made our way to the dock by Tuk Tuk ( 5 Quetzales or .60), and got onto a water taxi for the 40 minute ride ($2 per person) to the dock beside our Villa. Isabelle took us in to see our new quarters - nice open plan living area with a large open balcony overlooking the lake. As you can see by the photos - the views are spectacular. The Villa has the potential to be a wonderful retreat but unfortunately the owners have not taken the time to clean and equip the place properly. We spent the first day cleaning and the next day shopping for a coffee maker ($12) to replace the broken one there. We also purchased a new frying pan as the old one was in sad shape.
en the owners arrived, Sue went off with Isabelle to pick up some bread and wine - essentials !! We made our way to the dock by Tuk Tuk ( 5 Quetzales or .60), and got onto a water taxi for the 40 minute ride ($2 per person) to the dock beside our Villa. Isabelle took us in to see our new quarters - nice open plan living area with a large open balcony overlooking the lake. As you can see by the photos - the views are spectacular. The Villa has the potential to be a wonderful retreat but unfortunately the owners have not taken the time to clean and equip the place properly. We spent the first day cleaning and the next day shopping for a coffee maker ($12) to replace the broken one there. We also purchased a new frying pan as the old one was in sad shape.
Early next morning, we hiked to Jabalito along the trail following the mountain behind our house. The first challenge was to climb up a near vertical path (not Sue's forte) for about 100 metres before joining the main trail. Once there, the path was wider but 
not smooth by any means. At certain points we had to climb down steep rock faces to a stream bed and back up the other side. Jabalito is very small and only has a few B&B's and some tiny tiendas (shops). We waited on the dock for about 15 minutes before a boat taxi arrived and we made our way into Pana. Our first stop was at a bank where we exchanged 100US$ for 826 Quetzales (local currency). We both had a good lunch of omelette, refried beans, watermelon and chocolate milkshakes for well under $10. We wandered around and discovered food and craft markets and several stores - each with different goods. We bought our groceries for the next two days and headed back to the dock and to our Villa. The next day was spent listening to our Spanish course on our Ipod, reading and writing, playing chess, relaxing on the sun-filled deck and taking photos of the beautiful scenery. We also met Katherine - a lady from California who has been staying 
in the little cabin above us since September. She shared some shopping information with us and later on slipped a paper under our door with a map to a large supermarket (about the size of Freshmart in Bala) at the top end of Pana. She also warned us of the banditos along the walking trails (she was robbed last month!) and told us that just yesterday two hikers were robbed of their backpacks and money. Guess we won't be hiking the back trails very often!!
not smooth by any means. At certain points we had to climb down steep rock faces to a stream bed and back up the other side. Jabalito is very small and only has a few B&B's and some tiny tiendas (shops). We waited on the dock for about 15 minutes before a boat taxi arrived and we made our way into Pana. Our first stop was at a bank where we exchanged 100US$ for 826 Quetzales (local currency). We both had a good lunch of omelette, refried beans, watermelon and chocolate milkshakes for well under $10. We wandered around and discovered food and craft markets and several stores - each with different goods. We bought our groceries for the next two days and headed back to the dock and to our Villa. The next day was spent listening to our Spanish course on our Ipod, reading and writing, playing chess, relaxing on the sun-filled deck and taking photos of the beautiful scenery. We also met Katherine - a lady from California who has been staying 
in the little cabin above us since September. She shared some shopping information with us and later on slipped a paper under our door with a map to a large supermarket (about the size of Freshmart in Bala) at the top end of Pana. She also warned us of the banditos along the walking trails (she was robbed last month!) and told us that just yesterday two hikers were robbed of their backpacks and money. Guess we won't be hiking the back trails very often!! Every second day we make our way by boat to Pana to get fresh vegetables, meat and other supplies. On Monday we also dropped in on a cousin of Phyllis Trott's from Bala. Marion grew up in Honey Harbour but has lived in Gutemala for 31 years. She owns a hostel in Pana with four large efficiency rooms and amazing gardens with several beautiful peacocks wandering the grounds. She made us feel welcome right away. We also learned of a small grocery store near her that specializes in catering to North American
s. We went there and stocked up on a few items not available in the other stores. Back to the dock with bags full and home by boat. We normally have dinner about 5:30 as it is dark by then. Meals are simple, cooked on our two burner propane stove. Chicken, thin slices of beef, tilapia, potatoes, carrots, snow peas, and lots of other fresh vegetables and fruits. Spaghetti with an olive sauce has also been a big hit. The sun floods our place by 6:30 am so we are up enjoying our coffee on the balcony early in the morning. You can likely guess that we are in bed by 8:00 pm!
s. We went there and stocked up on a few items not available in the other stores. Back to the dock with bags full and home by boat. We normally have dinner about 5:30 as it is dark by then. Meals are simple, cooked on our two burner propane stove. Chicken, thin slices of beef, tilapia, potatoes, carrots, snow peas, and lots of other fresh vegetables and fruits. Spaghetti with an olive sauce has also been a big hit. The sun floods our place by 6:30 am so we are up enjoying our coffee on the balcony early in the morning. You can likely guess that we are in bed by 8:00 pm! Tuesday was spent working on minor things around the house that needed to be repaired, reading about the duties of escorts for our upcoming trip to Africa, and doing the laundry by hand. We also had to turn on the water pump down at the shore which pumps water to a large holding tank on the hill high above the house. It usually take half an hour to fill the tank which provides our tap and shower water by gravity. Drinking water has to be bought in town along with propane for cooking. 
Wednesday - off to town for another day of exploring and shopping for groceries. We also bought a toaster so we wouldn't have to fry the bread in a pan, and a new broom! One thing we are enjoying is all the people we meet on the boat taxis, people from all over the world, some of whom have moved here permanently and others who are visiting like us. Locals also ride the boats taking their goods to market or going to jobs in town.
On Thursday we hiked about 15 km to the little town of Santa Cruz - mostly up and down the mountain sides on narrow, rocky trails. We toured the main section of town before making our way down to the water where we each had a fruit smoothie in a hotel restaurant. All along the shore are sm
all guest houses, restaurants and beautiful homes with spectacular gardens.
We made it back to our villa by 1 pm and discovered that the owners had dropped off more towels, linens, spices and DVD's. They are being so helpful and really want to make our stay enjoyable. We did our laundry and hung it in the sun to dry. Sue enjoyed the hammock with a book and I played chess against the computer. We had a lovely fish dinner around 6 and were in bed by 8. It rained for about an hour until 9.
all guest houses, restaurants and beautiful homes with spectacular gardens.We made it back to our villa by 1 pm and discovered that the owners had dropped off more towels, linens, spices and DVD's. They are being so helpful and really want to make our stay enjoyable. We did our laundry and hung it in the sun to dry. Sue enjoyed the hammock with a book and I played chess against the computer. We had a lovely fish dinner around 6 and were in bed by 8. It rained for about an hour until 9.
Friday meant a trip to town after filling the water container at the Villa. Most mornings are clear and the temperature is around 15 degrees C. During the day it gets into the low to mid 20's with bright sun. By 4 pm some thin clouds appear and the temperature drops again to around 15. Today we are shopping for fresh vegetables at the market and some juice and meat from the small supermarket. Many of the indigenous females, both young and old, still wear their traditional clothes, a long black skirt with a colourful shirt, and sometimes a cloth wound in a ring around their heads. Many of them sell their colorful weaving in the markets. It is common to see women carrying large loads on their heads and people of all ages with loads of firewood on their backs.
We met with Isabelle (owner) today and she graciously set us up with wireless internet that will work from the Villa on the lake. Fantastic - that will be a great help to us as we get nearer to the departure for our Africa tour. All boats going to our side of the lake leave from the same dock at the base of one of the main streets. If there isn't a boat leaving right away, we simply sit on the dock and wait for another to arrive. The fare varies depending on the owner, the distance, the time of day and your nationality. Most times the cost is 15 Quetzales each or just under $2.00 if we are going from Pana and are dropped off at our dock (door to door service). To go to town, we simply have to stand on the dock and wave to a passing boat. The objective for the owner, of course, is to put as many people in his boat as possible for the trip which sometimes gets a bit hair raising especially if there are high waves on the lake. Most of the time there are about 25 people in the water taxi and a few are dropped off in exchange for others at each small town along the way. The number of life jackets on board does not in any way correspond to the number of passengers on the boat - I think it's some kind of exponential mathematical variation !
We met with Isabelle (owner) today and she graciously set us up with wireless internet that will work from the Villa on the lake. Fantastic - that will be a great help to us as we get nearer to the departure for our Africa tour. All boats going to our side of the lake leave from the same dock at the base of one of the main streets. If there isn't a boat leaving right away, we simply sit on the dock and wait for another to arrive. The fare varies depending on the owner, the distance, the time of day and your nationality. Most times the cost is 15 Quetzales each or just under $2.00 if we are going from Pana and are dropped off at our dock (door to door service). To go to town, we simply have to stand on the dock and wave to a passing boat. The objective for the owner, of course, is to put as many people in his boat as possible for the trip which sometimes gets a bit hair raising especially if there are high waves on the lake. Most of the time there are about 25 people in the water taxi and a few are dropped off in exchange for others at each small town along the way. The number of life jackets on board does not in any way correspond to the number of passengers on the boat - I think it's some kind of exponential mathematical variation !
On Saturday we hiked about 8 km south along the mountain paths to a very small and poor town called Tzununa. The path was very narrow and dropped straight off in many places. In the river valleys, the vegetation is very tropical, and on the upper slopes there are deciduous trees where the land hasn't been cleared and terraced for crops such as corn and coffee. We hiked up into the middle of town and visited a Catholic Church - the best looking building in the town. Inside, the floors were tiled and there was fluorescent lighting throughout. The pews were wooden benches on each side of a wide centre aisle which had more ornate tiles. Some local women entered and knelt at the front to pray. Since it was getting late, we went down to the town dock and took a boat back to the villa. We cooked a lovely steak and onion dinner with small potatoes and carrots. Somehow, the food here seems to have more flavour than at home - probably because everything is fresh and on your table the next day. It does mean having to shop every second day but we have the time for that here.
Sunday, January 10th - Temperature 14 degrees C at 7:00am. This morning as we were having coffee on the balcony we heard voices along the shore line. There were two girls who had pulled their kayaks up on the rocks and were sitting with their feet in the water chatting. We invited them to come for coffee. It turned out the one from New Zealand had worked for year at Isla Verde, an eco friendly lodge near Santa Cruz, and the other, from Ohio, had been there a month. They had a wealth of knowledge about the area to share. 
First, where they had their feet in the water is a natural hot spring as a result of the underground lava from local volcanoes. (We checked it out when they were leaving. Pretty amazing to have our own natural hot tub! The water in the circle of stones that someone put around it varies from warm to hot. Neat.)
They also recommended a guide to contact when we want to do the hike up the San Pedros volcano as it seems some of the guides you run into are not official and have cousins waiting to rob you along the way.
The kayaks the girls were using belong to an American who has a few cabins near Santa Cruz and rents out the kayaks. We have a row boat here but kayaks would be more fun and easier for exploring.
The girls also recommended buying multigrain bread from a posada in Jabilito run by a German. (Bread in grocery stores is usually white.) They also said his meals and fruit smoothies were very reasonably priced and good.
The girls pointed out that people from each village have a different predominant colour to their clothing w
hich apparently was organized by the Spanish so they would know whether the people were friendly to the Spanish by the colours they wore when they encountered them. We’ll have to check this out when we do a village tour around the lake by boat.
Julia and Liz stayed until about 9:00 am when they departed on their half hour trip back to Isla Verde.
First, where they had their feet in the water is a natural hot spring as a result of the underground lava from local volcanoes. (We checked it out when they were leaving. Pretty amazing to have our own natural hot tub! The water in the circle of stones that someone put around it varies from warm to hot. Neat.)
They also recommended a guide to contact when we want to do the hike up the San Pedros volcano as it seems some of the guides you run into are not official and have cousins waiting to rob you along the way.
The kayaks the girls were using belong to an American who has a few cabins near Santa Cruz and rents out the kayaks. We have a row boat here but kayaks would be more fun and easier for exploring.
The girls also recommended buying multigrain bread from a posada in Jabilito run by a German. (Bread in grocery stores is usually white.) They also said his meals and fruit smoothies were very reasonably priced and good.
The girls pointed out that people from each village have a different predominant colour to their clothing w
hich apparently was organized by the Spanish so they would know whether the people were friendly to the Spanish by the colours they wore when they encountered them. We’ll have to check this out when we do a village tour around the lake by boat.Julia and Liz stayed until about 9:00 am when they departed on their half hour trip back to Isla Verde.
We decided to check out the posada with the great bread so we hiked over the trail to Jabilito, about two kilometers. We had seen the place before as it is the only one that offers internet in Jabilito. As it happened they were out of bread but we stayed and had lunch. We had spiced chicken with flavored rice, a basket of grain bread and fruit smoothies for less than $2.50 each. It was very very good ! We met Heidi and James and their two children - 2 years and 4 months old!! who are staying at a nearby lodge. They spent 3 months in Costa Rica and now are here for the same amount of time. They sold their home in New York and are taking an extended vacation. Imagine traveling with two youngsters requiring diapers !!
In the afternoon we waded in the hot spring and lounged on the dock soaking up the wonderful sunshine. Since we were still full from lunch, dinner consisted of cheese and crackers with a side of shrimp, aided by a glass of wine.
In the afternoon we waded in the hot spring and lounged on the dock soaking up the wonderful sunshine. Since we were still full from lunch, dinner consisted of cheese and crackers with a side of shrimp, aided by a glass of wine.
Monday, January 11th - After breakfast on the balcony, we hiked to Jabalito to purchase a loaf of Hans’ fresh baked grain bread for 10Quetzales ($1.25). We returned in time to catch a boat to Pana at 10am. After dropping off the 5 gallon water bottle near the town dock, we wandered through the north and east sections of town. North has many small construction related businesses and the east is mainly large residential properties guarded by high walls, barbed wire and metal gates. Inside, we could see beautiful landscaped gardens and large well maintained homes. Continuing down toward the water,
we came to a huge park with beach, swimming area, large trees and numerous boats. There were a few families sitting in the shade having lunch or an ice cream from one of the small carts .
Not wanting to retrace our steps, we decided to try and cross the river back to the centre of town. Not a wise decision, but we did manage to make a small stone bridge at a narrow section where we jumped to avoid the smelly water. Back in town, we had lunch then began our shopping for fruit, vegetables , cheese, wine, juice and coffee. Most of the grocery stores are located about 1 ½ km from the shore so we wisely waited until we were almost at the boats to purchase the 5 gallon jug of potable water. On the return trip we sat and chatted with James who had also been in town doing the family shopping . One of the great things about travelling this way is meeting interesting people from all over the world.
we came to a huge park with beach, swimming area, large trees and numerous boats. There were a few families sitting in the shade having lunch or an ice cream from one of the small carts .Not wanting to retrace our steps, we decided to try and cross the river back to the centre of town. Not a wise decision, but we did manage to make a small stone bridge at a narrow section where we jumped to avoid the smelly water. Back in town, we had lunch then began our shopping for fruit, vegetables , cheese, wine, juice and coffee. Most of the grocery stores are located about 1 ½ km from the shore so we wisely waited until we were almost at the boats to purchase the 5 gallon jug of potable water. On the return trip we sat and chatted with James who had also been in town doing the family shopping . One of the great things about travelling this way is meeting interesting people from all over the world.
Tuesday Jan.12th - We spent most of the day working on notes pertaining to our Africa trip. Since this is our first time as tour escorts, there are numerous questions we have regarding procedures and logistics. We will meet with David Craig to sort this all out when we arrive back in Toronto.
Today is washing day - not us, our clothes! The process goes somewhat like this - get a plastic bucket and place it in the shower (our only source of heated tap water). Throw in the clothes and detergent. Sit in the shower and scrub, scrub, scrub. Wring the soapy water out and set the clothes on the tile floor. Empty the bucket and re-fill with water for rinsing. Sit in the shower and scrub, scrub, scrub. Empty the bucket of water and carry it out to the deck. Wring out each item allowing the excess water to fall on the garden below. Hang the item on the hammock or on a string we placed from the balcony railing over to a large wooden chair. Wait a few hours for the clothes to dry.
In the afternoon, we once again waded in our private hot tub ( well, warm underground spring anyway!). We laid on the dock to dry for fifteen minutes in the warm sun then headed up to collect the washing. We brought a small travel iron, but haven’t taken it out of the case. Probably won’t. No necesario!
Today is washing day - not us, our clothes! The process goes somewhat like this - get a plastic bucket and place it in the shower (our only source of heated tap water). Throw in the clothes and detergent. Sit in the shower and scrub, scrub, scrub. Wring the soapy water out and set the clothes on the tile floor. Empty the bucket and re-fill with water for rinsing. Sit in the shower and scrub, scrub, scrub. Empty the bucket of water and carry it out to the deck. Wring out each item allowing the excess water to fall on the garden below. Hang the item on the hammock or on a string we placed from the balcony railing over to a large wooden chair. Wait a few hours for the clothes to dry.
In the afternoon, we once again waded in our private hot tub ( well, warm underground spring anyway!). We laid on the dock to dry for fifteen minutes in the warm sun then headed up to collect the washing. We brought a small travel iron, but haven’t taken it out of the case. Probably won’t. No necesario!
Wednesday Jan.13th - Shopping day! Well, any excuse to go to town. Living here at the villa is like having a cottage on an island - but withou
t a boat! The only difference is that here we have water taxis every 15 minutes. In Pana we decided to look at hand made table cloths and wall hangings. There are probably close to a hundred small shops in town - each containing several dozen styles and sizes in every colour and design imaginable. In addition, there are locals wandering the streets laden with more ha
nd made goods. Many of the items have bright and bold colours, while others are subtle and subdued. There is something here for every taste. We managed to find a lovely hand loomed cloth that could go on the wall or be a table cloth at our place in Florida. Bartering is a way of life here as in many of the countries we have visited. The standard here seems to be for the vendor to ask about five times the amount they expect to receive. As soon as you say no, gracias, they begin to drop the price. This may go on for several minutes until both parties reach an agreed upon price. With tourism in general being down this year, many of the vendors are in need of sales.
We made our way up to the market place where fresh vegetables arrive each day. From there, we went to the grocery store for a few items before walking down to the lake. The boat we got into seemed narrower than others we had been on. Just when we thought it was full and we should be departing, another bunch of people came down the walkway and proceeded to load their goods on board. With no regard for the safety of his passengers, the driver made his way out onto the lake. The boat had to move along slowly to avoid getting swamped by the waves. We were getting soaked by the spray flooding over the bow. Their solution was to pull a large piece of plastic over us! It seeme
d like forever until we reached the first dock - and waiting there were nine more
People - all wanting to get on! When they started pouring on the boat we decided that our best choice was to get off and wait for the next taxi. When they asked us to pay, we said NO! and let them know the reason. Some other concerned passengers hopped out and joined us. We watched as the boat rocked its way out of the port - nearly submersed and water pouring in over the gunnels. I’m sure that they made it in the end, but it just wasn’t worth the risk of losing cameras and most importantly, our food!!! We weren’t worried about ourselves - we can both swim!
The next boat came along within minutes - half empty and with padded seats! Luxurious. We had a very pleasant ride to our dock!
t a boat! The only difference is that here we have water taxis every 15 minutes. In Pana we decided to look at hand made table cloths and wall hangings. There are probably close to a hundred small shops in town - each containing several dozen styles and sizes in every colour and design imaginable. In addition, there are locals wandering the streets laden with more ha
nd made goods. Many of the items have bright and bold colours, while others are subtle and subdued. There is something here for every taste. We managed to find a lovely hand loomed cloth that could go on the wall or be a table cloth at our place in Florida. Bartering is a way of life here as in many of the countries we have visited. The standard here seems to be for the vendor to ask about five times the amount they expect to receive. As soon as you say no, gracias, they begin to drop the price. This may go on for several minutes until both parties reach an agreed upon price. With tourism in general being down this year, many of the vendors are in need of sales.We made our way up to the market place where fresh vegetables arrive each day. From there, we went to the grocery store for a few items before walking down to the lake. The boat we got into seemed narrower than others we had been on. Just when we thought it was full and we should be departing, another bunch of people came down the walkway and proceeded to load their goods on board. With no regard for the safety of his passengers, the driver made his way out onto the lake. The boat had to move along slowly to avoid getting swamped by the waves. We were getting soaked by the spray flooding over the bow. Their solution was to pull a large piece of plastic over us! It seeme
d like forever until we reached the first dock - and waiting there were nine morePeople - all wanting to get on! When they started pouring on the boat we decided that our best choice was to get off and wait for the next taxi. When they asked us to pay, we said NO! and let them know the reason. Some other concerned passengers hopped out and joined us. We watched as the boat rocked its way out of the port - nearly submersed and water pouring in over the gunnels. I’m sure that they made it in the end, but it just wasn’t worth the risk of losing cameras and most importantly, our food!!! We weren’t worried about ourselves - we can both swim!
The next boat came along within minutes - half empty and with padded seats! Luxurious. We had a very pleasant ride to our dock!
Thursday Jan. 14th - Sue began the day by cleaning windows. An exciting start for sure! The sun shone brightly and there was almost no wind, giving the lake a look of tranquility. We spent some time working on at letter to send to clients of the Africa trip. Played chess and read a bit. After lunch we hopped on a boat for San Marcos, a town located at the south-west corner of Lake Atitlan. We had heard how different each village on the lake is, and this one certainly proved the point. Most of the hostels located near the water in San Marcos are wellness, massage, yoga, shiatsu, or meditation centres. There are small eco-style garden plots everywhere and intricate winding pathways joining the flower filled gardens. The entire lower community seemed to be a haven for hippies of this generation. Little shops sold roll-your-own papers and all shapes and styles of hookah pipes
.
Just past the town centre was a large Catholic Church and a playground filled with all manor of equipment. Beyond that, we made our way up the hill to where the locals reside. Quite a difference from the scene below. There were dozens of children playing out on the narrow walkways. Women were usually found washing clothes, cleaning the tiny homes or preparing meals. There are not as many men in any of the villages as they are often away working in the larger cities.
The boat ride back took about 20 minutes - not as smooth as our ride over. Dark
clouds had encircled the lake and it looked like it would rain. By now the wind was up creating small waves and swells. The fine spray of water from the bow felt somehow refreshing after our long walk. We met a lady on the boat who was staying at one of the lovely resorts near the town of Tznuna.
.Just past the town centre was a large Catholic Church and a playground filled with all manor of equipment. Beyond that, we made our way up the hill to where the locals reside. Quite a difference from the scene below. There were dozens of children playing out on the narrow walkways. Women were usually found washing clothes, cleaning the tiny homes or preparing meals. There are not as many men in any of the villages as they are often away working in the larger cities.
The boat ride back took about 20 minutes - not as smooth as our ride over. Dark
clouds had encircled the lake and it looked like it would rain. By now the wind was up creating small waves and swells. The fine spray of water from the bow felt somehow refreshing after our long walk. We met a lady on the boat who was staying at one of the lovely resorts near the town of Tznuna. She said that the views were spectacular, but she was moving out tomorrow because of the 300 steps up to her villa ! Fortunately, we have only fifty to climb from the water.
The clouds had brought no rain, but we did notice that the temperature had dropped quickly. Time to enjoy a warm cozy fire and settle in for the evening.
The clouds had brought no rain, but we did notice that the temperature had dropped quickly. Time to enjoy a warm cozy fire and settle in for the evening.
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