We had been told there may be some around and that they aren’t really dangerous. Not sure I’m willing to find out so a broom seems like the wisest choice of weapons. Sure glad we
had our shoes on.We caught the one o’clock taxi to Pana - an incredibly smooth ride for an afternoon. Usually the wind has picked up and we notice a change on the lake, but not today. Not yet anyway. Our pantry is pretty full now so today’s shopping is mainly for the basics - milk, cheese, juice, and fresh fruits and vegetables from the market. We spent some time wandering through the textile markets getting an idea of prices for table runners and wall hangings.
By the time we finished our shopping and made our way to the dock it was after five o’clock. We hadn’t noticed that the wind had picked up substantially and was coming from the south. Huge waves were pouring in on the shore and boats were bouncing like corks. The first taxi waiting seemed very narrow and we could see that the operator was determined to fill his boat beyond capacity. We decided to wait until the next one going in our direction. We waited. And waited. Several boats came and went, but not to our side of the lake. When we did finally board it was already dark. Again, the captain filled the boat with twice the safe number of passengers. Fortunately the lake was settling down for the night and we managed to make it home without incident. We had learned a lesson though - it’s best to depart Pana by 3:30pm at the latest. By the time w
e cooked dinner it was almost nine.Saturday January 16 - Another calm, beautiful morning. We decided to spend the day exploring three villages around the lake - two of which we had not yet been to. Our first trip was back to San Marcos to see their market day. Most towns have their markets in a central area but not so here. Vendors were sitting alongside the narrow stone paths that wind through the myriad of wellness centres near the shore. Locals sold freshly picked vegetables while ex-pats sat cross-legged next to their hand-made jewelry. On to the next town.
San Juan is an exceptionally clean town with numerous art and textile co-operatives. There are little galleries ev
erywhere - most with the artist present and working on his or her latest creation. We wandered from artist to artist talking to most of them with our limited Spanish. We can understand much of what is said if the person speaks slowly, but it would be so nice if we could engage in a complete conversation. After making our way through much of the town, we had lunch on the upper floor of a restaurant overlooking the water. It seemed like a good time to order something different - a double cheeseburger and fries for less than $2.50! We’ll have a chance to walk it off anyway. 
Rather than taking the boat to the next town, we hailed a Tuk Tuk and had a great ride back through the streets of San Juan and over the back hills to San Pedro La Laguna. More like a small city than a town, the population here is over 14,000. There are numerous churches and scores of small posadas or guest houses. The market area near the town centre is huge and features items we haven’t seen elsewhere. Sitting at the base of the San Pedro Volcano, it is the starting point for hikes to the top. We were told that it takes about 4 hours to climb and roughly 2 ½ to descend. It was also mentioned that some guides are working with the banditos, so we will most likely w
ait until we are in Antigua to climb a volcano.
After walking up and down many of the streets and back alleys, we made our way down to the dock for the boat ride back home. It’s always interesting to see what fare the locals pay compared to the amount requested from us. The difference can only be attributed to a Gringo Tax. Regardless, it’s still an inexpensive way to get around the lake.
San Juan is an exceptionally clean town with numerous art and textile co-operatives. There are little galleries ev
erywhere - most with the artist present and working on his or her latest creation. We wandered from artist to artist talking to most of them with our limited Spanish. We can understand much of what is said if the person speaks slowly, but it would be so nice if we could engage in a complete conversation. After making our way through much of the town, we had lunch on the upper floor of a restaurant overlooking the water. It seemed like a good time to order something different - a double cheeseburger and fries for less than $2.50! We’ll have a chance to walk it off anyway. 
Rather than taking the boat to the next town, we hailed a Tuk Tuk and had a great ride back through the streets of San Juan and over the back hills to San Pedro La Laguna. More like a small city than a town, the population here is over 14,000. There are numerous churches and scores of small posadas or guest houses. The market area near the town centre is huge and features items we haven’t seen elsewhere. Sitting at the base of the San Pedro Volcano, it is the starting point for hikes to the top. We were told that it takes about 4 hours to climb and roughly 2 ½ to descend. It was also mentioned that some guides are working with the banditos, so we will most likely w
ait until we are in Antigua to climb a volcano.
After walking up and down many of the streets and back alleys, we made our way down to the dock for the boat ride back home. It’s always interesting to see what fare the locals pay compared to the amount requested from us. The difference can only be attributed to a Gringo Tax. Regardless, it’s still an inexpensive way to get around the lake. Sunday January 17th - Right after breakfast there was a knock at the door. Now we don’t have many folks living nearby, and with access by boat or back trail only, we had no idea wh
o it was. When we opened the door, there was Maria, the wife of the caretaker next door. She presented us a plate with two hot tamales - on the occasion of her husband’s birthday. We invited her in and discovered that it was her husband’s 63rd birthday. The conversation didn’t last too long, however, as she speaks only Spanish. 
Our plan for the day was to walk to Santa Cruz and back on the trails. It is a challenging hike, uphill both ways!!! Well, logic says there should be as many downs as ups, but when you are straining to hold yourself from tumbling down a steep incline, there seems to be the same amount of effort involved. The views from the high trails along the way are spectacular. After close to an hour, we arrived in Cruz. Along the waterfront are some of the most beautiful and architecturally delightful homes. Many have outstanding gardens - obvio
usly the beneficiary of a twelve month growing season.
Just past the town dock we came upon a new building with an open sign. It was an art gallery that had just recently opened called the Atitlan Arts Centre. We were invited in by Nancy, one of the artists who helps to run the co-op. She is from the north-west US and has been spending her winters down here for the past 14 years. The artwork was interesting but didn’t really appeal to our tastes.
On the way back we picked up some fresh-baked whole wheat bread for us and two pieces of birthday pie ( they were all out of cake)for our neighbour Domingo and his wife. After lunch we took the pie and a baseball cap over and spent a few minutes conversing with them. Domingo was thrilled with his new hat, especially since the logo was in Spanish - La Casita Restaurante.
o it was. When we opened the door, there was Maria, the wife of the caretaker next door. She presented us a plate with two hot tamales - on the occasion of her husband’s birthday. We invited her in and discovered that it was her husband’s 63rd birthday. The conversation didn’t last too long, however, as she speaks only Spanish. 
Our plan for the day was to walk to Santa Cruz and back on the trails. It is a challenging hike, uphill both ways!!! Well, logic says there should be as many downs as ups, but when you are straining to hold yourself from tumbling down a steep incline, there seems to be the same amount of effort involved. The views from the high trails along the way are spectacular. After close to an hour, we arrived in Cruz. Along the waterfront are some of the most beautiful and architecturally delightful homes. Many have outstanding gardens - obvio
usly the beneficiary of a twelve month growing season.Just past the town dock we came upon a new building with an open sign. It was an art gallery that had just recently opened called the Atitlan Arts Centre. We were invited in by Nancy, one of the artists who helps to run the co-op. She is from the north-west US and has been spending her winters down here for the past 14 years. The artwork was interesting but didn’t really appeal to our tastes.
On the way back we picked up some fresh-baked whole wheat bread for us and two pieces of birthday pie ( they were all out of cake)for our neighbour Domingo and his wife. After lunch we took the pie and a baseball cap over and spent a few minutes conversing with them. Domingo was thrilled with his new hat, especially since the logo was in Spanish - La Casita Restaurante.
Monday, January 18 - A relaxing day…coffee and toast on the
balcony, and a casual morning of solitaire, emailing, reading, and electronic chess. Mary Lou (Sue’s sister) and Sue are writing a story paragraph by paragraph on email. They spend more time laughing at the antics of their lead character, Vicki, and creating exaggerated scenarios. Naturally the story is set in Guatemala starting out in a villa in the mountains on the shore of a lake…where have we seen that setting before? And guess what? They have encounters with banditos. What a surprise! Sue is also learning her part in Ave Maria which is on our laptop. By the time we leave here I think I’ll be able to fill in if she can’t do it for Julia’s wedding.
balcony, and a casual morning of solitaire, emailing, reading, and electronic chess. Mary Lou (Sue’s sister) and Sue are writing a story paragraph by paragraph on email. They spend more time laughing at the antics of their lead character, Vicki, and creating exaggerated scenarios. Naturally the story is set in Guatemala starting out in a villa in the mountains on the shore of a lake…where have we seen that setting before? And guess what? They have encounters with banditos. What a surprise! Sue is also learning her part in Ave Maria which is on our laptop. By the time we leave here I think I’ll be able to fill in if she can’t do it for Julia’s wedding.We hiked south in the afternoon to the town of Tzununa. We had already visited the town on a past hike so this time we went into a beautiful lodge with magnificent views along the way. Unfortunately, with tourism down about 60%, the place seemed quite empty. 
They offered fine dining at prices that would be considered high for Guatemala but very good by North American standards. The only negative for clients would be the great distance to walk down to the water to get a water taxi the only access to the lodge other than the mountain trail. Sue is very hesitant on parts of the steep parts of the trail although the more we go over them the better she gets. If we stay here for a year she’ll be running them along with the local people of all ages who carry huge loads along them while wearing flip-flops or bare feet.
Another well deserved beer on the balcony. Yes, food does seem to be an important part of our vacation. It doesn’t seem likely that we’ll be losing any weight on this trip…but we are getting great walking exercise!
They offered fine dining at prices that would be considered high for Guatemala but very good by North American standards. The only negative for clients would be the great distance to walk down to the water to get a water taxi the only access to the lodge other than the mountain trail. Sue is very hesitant on parts of the steep parts of the trail although the more we go over them the better she gets. If we stay here for a year she’ll be running them along with the local people of all ages who carry huge loads along them while wearing flip-flops or bare feet.Another well deserved beer on the balcony. Yes, food does seem to be an important part of our vacation. It doesn’t seem likely that we’ll be losing any weight on this trip…but we are getting great walking exercise!
Tuesday, January 19 - Seems we missed the news (no radio or TV news programs here at the villa) …yesterday morning there was an earthquake in Guatemala! We weren’t even aware of it until Andrea Burdick emailed to ask if we were O.K. We didn’t feel a thing but a couple of Auzzies we met said their hotel room in Antigua rocked for a good five seconds. They debated whether to go outside or stand under a reinforced doorway, but the rocking stopped so they did neither.
Another shopping day in Pana. We can get some fresh vegetables and bread in local villages but it means hiking on the mountain trail to bring them home so…off to Pana by water taxi. It is just so neat to stand o
n your dock and wave to a passing boat for a ride. We are very familiar with Pana now and have our routines. Lunch in town, shopping at the market, ice cream cone at a local tienda, and groceries from one of the larger stores. They sell fresh meat in the market but like many of the countries we have visited, it is not refrigerated and hangs there with flies all over it, so we prefer to buy meat in a regular grocery store…chicken, beef, or frozen tilapia. Coming home on the water taxi we sat with a young couple from Winnipeg who we met a few days ago on the boat. It seems the boat is the place to meet visitors from all over the world as well as ex-pats who all enjoy sharing their enthusiasm and experiences.
Thursday January 21st - Another beautiful morning. Bright, warm sunshine and clear blue skies. The lake is very still at this time of day and there are divers in the bay not too far from us. About every fifteen minutes a boat taxi loaded with people goes by headed for Pana. They are likely on their way to work or to catch a bus to another town.
We decided to g
o for a hike to visit a couple of resorts located a few kilometers away from us. The first is La Casa del Mundo, perched on the cliff across the bay from us. We have seen it from the boat every time we made our way to and from Pana, and had even stopped at the dock there to let people off. From the lake or the trail it is an impressive property. Up close, it is even more so. The rooms are small but beautifully decorated and immaculately clean. Each one has a panoramic view of the lake and volcanoes, some with a balcony and private bathroom. There are winding stone paths throughout the property with elaborate gardens with small tiled patios a
t strategic locations. We made our way down to the water where we met the owner. He bought the property and started to develop it in1982 and is still making improvements to it. He was proud to tell us how eco-friendly the resort is with hot water supplied by solar lines on the upper slopes and composted waste used in the gardens. Each night a fixed-menu candle light dinner is prepared in the restaurant for hotel guests and people like us who are staying nearby. The cost is around $10 and would be a real treat if we didn’t have to make it back to our villa in the dark. Rooms cost from $35/night for a double or twin with shared bath to around $73 for a deluxe suite. http://www.lacasadelmundo.com/ 
On our way back through the tiny village of Jaibalito we stopped in to see the Vulcano Lodge which has been run by a Norwegian couple for the p
ast sixteen years. Unlike the Mundo, there are not 184 steps to climb with your luggage in tow. This little oasis sits at the bottom of a valley and although the views aren’t spectacular, the lake and volcanoes are still visible. There are many wonderful gardens here including giant Christmas Cactus with bright red blooms. From the reviews we’ve seen, the food and hospitality rate five stars here. Rooms are located in small cabins around the property and start at $39 including breakfast. http://www.vulcanolodge.com/
Another shopping day in Pana. We can get some fresh vegetables and bread in local villages but it means hiking on the mountain trail to bring them home so…off to Pana by water taxi. It is just so neat to stand o
n your dock and wave to a passing boat for a ride. We are very familiar with Pana now and have our routines. Lunch in town, shopping at the market, ice cream cone at a local tienda, and groceries from one of the larger stores. They sell fresh meat in the market but like many of the countries we have visited, it is not refrigerated and hangs there with flies all over it, so we prefer to buy meat in a regular grocery store…chicken, beef, or frozen tilapia. Coming home on the water taxi we sat with a young couple from Winnipeg who we met a few days ago on the boat. It seems the boat is the place to meet visitors from all over the world as well as ex-pats who all enjoy sharing their enthusiasm and experiences.Thursday January 21st - Another beautiful morning. Bright, warm sunshine and clear blue skies. The lake is very still at this time of day and there are divers in the bay not too far from us. About every fifteen minutes a boat taxi loaded with people goes by headed for Pana. They are likely on their way to work or to catch a bus to another town.
We decided to g
o for a hike to visit a couple of resorts located a few kilometers away from us. The first is La Casa del Mundo, perched on the cliff across the bay from us. We have seen it from the boat every time we made our way to and from Pana, and had even stopped at the dock there to let people off. From the lake or the trail it is an impressive property. Up close, it is even more so. The rooms are small but beautifully decorated and immaculately clean. Each one has a panoramic view of the lake and volcanoes, some with a balcony and private bathroom. There are winding stone paths throughout the property with elaborate gardens with small tiled patios a
t strategic locations. We made our way down to the water where we met the owner. He bought the property and started to develop it in1982 and is still making improvements to it. He was proud to tell us how eco-friendly the resort is with hot water supplied by solar lines on the upper slopes and composted waste used in the gardens. Each night a fixed-menu candle light dinner is prepared in the restaurant for hotel guests and people like us who are staying nearby. The cost is around $10 and would be a real treat if we didn’t have to make it back to our villa in the dark. Rooms cost from $35/night for a double or twin with shared bath to around $73 for a deluxe suite. http://www.lacasadelmundo.com/ 
On our way back through the tiny village of Jaibalito we stopped in to see the Vulcano Lodge which has been run by a Norwegian couple for the p
ast sixteen years. Unlike the Mundo, there are not 184 steps to climb with your luggage in tow. This little oasis sits at the bottom of a valley and although the views aren’t spectacular, the lake and volcanoes are still visible. There are many wonderful gardens here including giant Christmas Cactus with bright red blooms. From the reviews we’ve seen, the food and hospitality rate five stars here. Rooms are located in small cabins around the property and start at $39 including breakfast. http://www.vulcanolodge.com/Along the trail on the way back we came across some children who were out collecting sticks for firewood. We weren't t sure whether they were tak
ing it home or selling it back in their village. The weight of the bundled wood seemed beyond the capabilities of the youngsters but with a head strap and the power of experience, they managed to hoist the load and make their way toward home. We could only wonder how they were able to cope with the steep inclines they were about to encounter - ones we had found difficult to negotiate while carrying nothing.
ing it home or selling it back in their village. The weight of the bundled wood seemed beyond the capabilities of the youngsters but with a head strap and the power of experience, they managed to hoist the load and make their way toward home. We could only wonder how they were able to cope with the steep inclines they were about to encounter - ones we had found difficult to negotiate while carrying nothing.
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